There’s no better time than now to show your support for the Black community. As Americans continue to open their eyes to the injustices of systemic racism and discrimination, many are contemplating better ways to stand in solidarity with the Black community.
One such way is to dine at Black-owned establishments. Another is to take the time to listen to Black industry leaders about what needs to change in the hospitality world to make it a better, more just industry, one that doesn’t allow for racial inequality to be brushed under the rug. One that celebrates diversity, inclusion and equal representation, and moreover, amplifies Black voices and their successes.
We chatted with eight Bay Area chefs and restauranteurs on beginnings, “made-it” moments, racial struggles and progression within the hospitality industry and so much more. Here’s what they had to say.
Jamie Boatner, Owner, Hazel Southern Bar & KitchenMORE FOR YOUBlack-Owned Syrup Company’s Sales Jump 78% After Aunt Jemima Brand RetirementShuk Shuka: Your One-Stop Online Marketplace For All Things Middle Eastern Cuisine10 San Francisco Restaurants Open For Patio Dining Now (And What To Order!)
How did you get your start as a chef and restaurateur?
I got my start roughly 20 years ago doing PR and Marketing for boutique hotels, restaurants, bars and nightclubs. Growing up, my mother and inspiration for my current business, Hazel Southern Bar & Kitchen, was in the bar and entertainment business. It was watching her handle the day to day business that peaked my interest. So years later when I had the opportunity to learn the business from the promotional aspect, I jumped at the opportunity. I spent the first several years dealing mostly with bars and nightclubs. I loved the energy and the excitement of these venues. I always felt I was being challenged and learning more and more everyday. I decided at that point I would like to own my bar or entertainment space someday.
After several years, I relocated to San Francisco. Once the roots were planted, the search began. I realized very quickly I didn’t know the city well enough to just purchase a bar and hit the ground running. I instead applied for a marketing position at one of San Francisco’s hottest nightclubs and lounges, The Cellar Nightclub and Sugar Cafe & Lounge. I figured this would be the best way to learn the San Francisco vibe and get some local experience under my belt.
Needless to say, I was hooked. The General Manager who hired me, took me under her wing and taught me everything. I had never dealt with a cafe before but I loved it. Long story short, years later, I would end up purchasing the Sugar Cafe & Lounge furthering my love of the business.
What was your first “made-it” moment?
My first “made it” moment is a tricky one. I do feel my initial purchase of Sugar Cafe & Lounge was a huge accomplishment. I believe without that purchase, I probably wouldn’t be answering your questions right now. That said, I would have to say my first official moment was the grand opening of Hazel Southern Bar & Kitchen. There’s still no better feeling knowing a concept I worked on for five years prior, would come to fruition on Market Street in San Francisco of all places.
And to be able to share it with my crew, which is composed of people I’ve worked with for years and have been there since the Sugar days, there’s no better feeling. Even with everything we’ve been through the past year and the past couple of months especially, I still smile most days when I talk about Hazel, stand in front of the mural of my mother on the wall or simply just walk by.
What’s your advice to aspiring restaurateurs, particularly those of color?
My advice to anyone aspiring to open their own establishment is to be prepared. And when you think you are completely prepared, prepare again. Research, research, research. Learn, learn, learn. This business is an extremely hard one. There is so much competition, so many laws, so many little details you will definitely forget and so much to learn. The day you stop learning, you should close your doors and move on to another career.
The food and beverage industry is forever evolving and you have to be able to adapt. You have to accept change. As these past months have shown us. It’s all part of the business. It’s also the only way you will achieve longevity. Also, it’s an unforgiving business. It doesn’t care about your gender, nationality, sexual preference or which comedian you think is funniest. That said, you cannot second guess yourself. If you are going to do it, go all in.
Believe in yourself as so many others will not. You will hear time and time again what a terrible business it is. For people of color, as much as I’d love to say it’s an equal playing field, it’s not. But this is something you simply can’t focus on. You will lose before you even get started. Hold your head high, know, believe and own your concept. If you don’t, no one else will either.
What changes does the restaurant and bar industry need to make to address racial injustices?
There are many opportunities and resources I believe minority owned businesses should have more access to. Things like SBA loans, grants and sometimes the extra push from the city. And as owners and patrons, we need to support each other. I’m not sure where it was stated that there is only room enough for one of each type of business, but we live in a city that is most certainly large enough for all of us. If we don’t support each other, we will never survive. There are other changes but they are much bigger than us. The city itself has pretty much priced everyone out. We will have to wait and see what the future has in store.
On the flip side, are there things you’re doing differently on a personal level in your restaurant to promote progression?
The ways I have tried to promote progression simply come from what I’ve been taught by my mother Hazel. An extremely strong, proud, woman of color. She showed me how to be all inclusive from day one. And growing up in Cheyenne, Wyoming, was not always the easiest thing to do. Accept everyone. Love everyone. Period. This is something I take to heart.
My team and I have built this business on the values and experiences she has instilled in me. I’m hoping to constantly be as strong and as brave as my mother could ever be and to pass along the values I was taught growing up. Ultimately, the main goal was to create an environment that is welcoming and inviting to everyone. Going back to no matter what gender, nationality, sexual preference or which comedian you find the funniest.
Matt Horn, Chef & Pitmaster, Horn Barbecue
How did you get your start as a chef?
It all started for me in 2016 at a farmer’s market in Tracy, California. Prior to that point I had been working in retail management but was completely unfulfilled. On my days off, I spent hours and hours honing my barbecue craft in my grandmother’s backyard, where I cooked on my grandfather’s barbecue pit. It was a period of experimentation and the barbecue I made was for my family. Deciding to serve my food at the farmer’s market in Tracy was a big step for me. It was literally a leap of faith.
What was your first “made-it” moment?
The demand for my barbecue grew substantially at the farmer’s market. From there I began doing pop-ups in the Central Valley and in the Bay Area. Preparing for the pop-ups was a tremendous amount of work. With each pop-up, the lines grew longer and longer and the buzz on social media intensified. The response to my food was enthusiastic. Nevertheless, I had many moments of doubt. I really had no idea how many people would show up at any given pop-up.
After a particularly challenging cook for a pop-up in Alameda, the uncertainty had caught up to me. Maybe it was fatigue, I’m not sure. I had been working on my pit for over 18 hours straight and was exhausted come morning as we set out the tables and tent. It was at that point that I looked up at the line that had formed for the pop-up. People were queued up in a line that wrapped hundreds of yards through a parking lot and around an enormous, repurposed aircraft hangar. Nearly a thousand people showed up. Doubt turned into joy. I knew then I was on the right path.
What’s your advice to aspiring chefs and restaurateurs, particularly those of color?
There are no risks without rewards. In order to accomplish anything extraordinary in this life, you have to learn to be comfortable with uncertainty. Risks precede the achievement of big dreams and aspirations. The restaurant business is a very risky endeavor. There are no guarantees and plenty of adversity. And then there are the nay-sayers. You will be confronted with a fair number of people, including your so-called “supporters,” who will discourage you along the way. Some will even try to scare you out of the business.
It’s important to center yourself. Understand who you are and why you got into this business. Hold onto your vision and your dreams for your life. Work on holding that vision and dream steady in your mind and heart. Establish the discipline that allows you to close your eyes and see your vision with clarity and feel it with purpose. Be creative and thoughtful with your restaurant concept and ideas. Don’t be afraid to be different. With hard work, perseverance, and faith there is nothing you can’t accomplish in this life.
What changes does the restaurant and bar industry need to make to address racial injustices?
The industry needs to recognize that it is no longer acceptable — it’s never been really — to pay workers less than a living wage. As a Black chef and restauranteur, I feel the responsibility to do well by my community and my people. This means holding vendors, investors, the media accountable for how they treat Black folks and people of color. Justice starts with respect.
How are you treating your customers of color? Is your staff engaged in biases against people of color? If so, what are you doing to make sure all are welcome? How are we pushing back against regulators who are discriminating against Black and people of color owned businesses? The industry needs to elevate chefs and restauranteurs of color as representing the best of who we are. We should be the public face of the industry. While the industry may not be able to change laws, we can change culture. Justice looks like ensuring that people of color are celebrated for our excellence.
On the flip side, are there things you’re doing differently on a personal level in your restaurant to promote progression?
It’s important for the people who come to work in our restaurant to not only know how to cook great barbecue, but to understand the history and the cultural significance of those that came before us. I want the people who work with me to appreciate our predecessors, especially the Black pit masters who laid the foundation of American barbecue culture. With that being said, I’ve been working on a curriculum that I will implement in the local school systems to be able to teach young children the art and historical context of barbecue.
Shani Jones, Chef & Owner, Peaches Patties
How did you get your start as a chef and restaurateur?
I grew up in a family where we were always cooking. At my earliest moments I was always watching my mother and grandmother cooking Jamaican food. This is how I learned to cook Jamaican food. My mother whose nickname is Peaches would always make homemade Jamaican Patties for the holiday and it was always considered a family treat. When I moved to Atlanta to attend Clark Atlanta University, I would always cook Jamaican and American food for my roommates and friends. No one that was around me never went hungry. When I moved back home to San Francisco, CA I decided to create Peaches Patties. Peaches Patties would pay homage to my mother and her delicious Jamaican Patties and cooking.
What was your first “made-it” moment?
My first “made it” moment was when Peaches Patties grew to the point where we starting to serve more than two thousand people a week with our Jamaican Patties and our Jamaican meals. I was incredibly happy that people started to recognize our brand and how they loved our food. Right now, I am continuing to work hard to let more people know about Peaches Patties and our amazing Jamaican Patties.
What is your advice to aspiring restaurateurs, particularly those of color?
My advice is anything is possible if you put your mind to it. Yes, you will have to work extremely hard to make a name for yourself but if you are passionate and have the right people in your corner everything will work out perfectly. Continue to denounce racist people and systems that have been put in place as a stumbling block. You have the talent, strength, and creativity to move forward and break barriers.
What changes does the restaurant and bar industry need to make to address racial injustices?
Now is the time for the restaurant and bar industry to educate themselves about anti-blackness and how it is rooted in all systems in America. I think at this very moment we are beyond the point of engaging in willful ignorance to address racial injustices in America. The restaurant and bar industry must take that step to educate, reflect, and making active change in the industry against racial injustices.
On the flip side, are there things you’re doing differently on a personal level in your restaurant to promote progression?
I have always promoted progression in Peaches Patties by educating about Jamaican culture, its food, and promoting that racism has no place in Peaches Patties.
Dontaye Ball, Owner & Chef, Gumbo Social
How did you get your start as a chef and restaurateur?
My first-ever job was at a high-end senior living assistance home where I learned how to serve and bus tables. As I grew and showed a passion for culinary the chefs would allow me to come in early before my shifts and come in and prep. At that job I learned the true meaning of hospitality when you’re serving someone that’s old enough to be your grandparents you start to understand a little bit more about life, what it means to take care of someone.
After high school I enrolled into culinary school at San Francisco City College. After culinary school I did my internship at Delfina Restaurant. At that moment that was the most incredible thing that could ever happen to me. Working at Delfina gave me the technical bass culinary skills to help propel my career. I learned how to deal with adversity on a night to night basis. I also learn how to become a better communicator and how to cook extraordinary food.
What was your first “made-it” moment?
I would have to say my first I made it moment was the day I did my first event when I started my own catering company. The level of joy and accomplishment I got from that was overwhelming. To have someone pay money for something that you created is a feeling that is indescribable. The second time I made it moment was the day my mother told me that she was proud of me for chasing and living my dream of becoming a chef and entrepreneur.
What’s your advice to aspiring chefs and restaurateurs, particularly those of color?
My advice that I would give to a person of color trying to make it in hospitality will be, continue to learn about food and hospitality by taking classes. One of the big mistakes in this industry is that people believe they no longer need to learn anything. Go work at places for free, read cookbooks, collaborate with other chefs. Do every single thing you can to learn about the industry. I would also say that still in 2020 hard work pays off. I was never the smartest person in the room but I was always willing to show up early and stay late.
What changes does the restaurant and bar industry need to make to address racial injustices?
Opportunity, diversity and training. As many know restaurants usually run a very tight margins and it is difficult to take a risk on training someone that doesn’t fit the usual mode, but if each restaurant took a look at their staff and focused on being a little more diverse it would help the organization or business understand the unique challenges of each group that it employs. Also having conversations with staff around their personal barriers and why they can’t move up most people will find that some of these barriers are easily solved. That’s a really simple formula to create opportunity and take a step towards racial injustice.
On the flip side, are there things you’re doing differently on a personal level in your restaurant to promote progression?
As a black man I pride myself and give equal opportunity to all people no matter their race or sexual orientation. I believe that everyone has and adds value. I always challenged myself to get to understand other perspectives so that I can be inclusive. Through the years of owning businesses one of the things I’m most proud of is giving people opportunities to show their personality through the work that they do.
Quanisha Johnson, Owner & Chef, Yes Pudding
How did you get your start as a chef and restaurateur?
The start of my cooking journey happened when I was a teenager. I found myself in the kitchen a lot cooking for my grandmother. She had a bad leg and could not walk very well. My food resonated well with my family especially the year I was responsible for making Thanksgiving Dinner and I made my first Banana Pudding. I went on to culinary school, have been working in the industry for 10 plus years now and I still made Banana Pudding for my family. This is where I got the idea for my business Yes Pudding. I have a ton of flavors but Banana Pudding is still everyone’s favorite.
What was your first “made-it” moment?
Throughout my business journey I’ve been featured in articles, news stories, and won awards. The made it moments for me are small. The continued customer satisfaction. The guy I met standing in line at the bathroom telling me I was the talk of the town, the women who just knew I was responsible for pudding catered to a baby shower and the many stories I hear about how Banana Pudding is some people’s favorite childhood memories.
What’s your advice to aspiring chefs and restaurateurs, particularly those of color?
My advice for aspiring chefs of color is to not get discouraged. If people are advancing around you and you know you deserve it don’t let it bring you down. Soak up all the knowledge you can from working for others and when you’re ready step out and create your own lane.
What changes does the restaurant and bar industry need to make to address racial injustices?
Definitely more representation in ownership and management. I’ve seen this even while attending school; white classmates received more accolades for being mediocre. While black people are expected to work twice as hard for less. Unfortunately I’ve worked for black chefs that have these same expectations. It comes from a place a love but definitely hinders our growth. Even after working twice as hard we might just get a pat on the back.
On the flip side, are there things you’re doing differently on a personal level in your restaurant to promote progression?
One of my goals for my business is to hire youth of color. My plan is implementing a job program that will focus on building skills and mentorship. I once majored in Social Work. Implementing this program with bringing youth together with food will be a full circle moment for me. For me now is just not staying silent and sharing information, signing every petition and donating when I can. I guess you could say I’m a back row protestor.
Banks White, Chef, Brixton & Rambler
How did you get your start as a chef?
I made a bold move. I was comfortable working at a highly acclaimed Austin restaurant, but I wanted more. I came to San Francisco on a weekend flight. I grabbed Micheal Bauer Top 100 Restaurants paper and picked 3 kitchens to stage. Daniel Humm (Campton Place), Robbie Lewis (Jardinere) and David Tanis (Chez Panisse). I was encouraged with offer letters in hand, so I moved to Napa and started at Michelin Starred restaurant Auberge du Soliel.
My first Executive Chef position was at FIVE in Berkeley at the Hotel Shattuck Plaza. I was 28, I had a goal to reach the position before I was 30 years old. I was the #2 in charge of a busy full-service restaurant, catering department and room service. When the chef left, the owners approached me to take over and I held the position for five years.
What was your first “made-it” moment?
I’ve been blessed with a few, but every time it happens you say “this is the moment” but my most recent is receiving the award for 2019 Rising Star Hotel Chef in San Francisco by Star Chefs.
What’s your advice to aspiring chefs and restaurateurs, particularly those of color?
Work with a chef that has a teacher’s spirit. When you’re staging, you’re also interviewing the head chef and asking questions to the other cooks, not just about the food. Watch how the chefs treat the dishwashers and porters.
What changes does the restaurant and bar industry need to make to address racial injustices?
I didn’t really understand how much representation mattered until a young Black culinary student came knocking and told me she wrote her thesis paper on me for school. She had never saw a Black Executive Chef. It starts with what does your executive team looks like, including management, servers and cooks. Think about having a diverse group of employees that matches the customers you’re serving.
On the flip side, are there things you’re doing differently on a personal level in your restaurant to promote progression?
I’ve always operated on a “promote within” atmosphere and have a string of success stories throughout my career. Black, White, Asian… it doesn’t matter. I’ve had people that start with me as Dishwashers or Interns and move all the way up to Lead Butcher and Sous Chef. Floor Manager to General Managers, Bartenders to Beverage Directors. But you have to be in the room and you have to have the culture. I’ve used my position and privilege to lift up others when they’re ready.
Dorian Jones, Owner & Chef of B.A.B.S Catering Oakland
How did you get your start as a chef and restaurateur?
I always knew I wanted to be a chef so I went to undergrad for hospitality management. After I graduated I went to culinary school in Atlanta and my first kitchen was a restaurant named Cakes and Ale and I’ve been in some form of the hospitality industry ever since.
What was your first “made-it” moment?
It might seem simple but after a few months of modifying my business plan at the end of last year. I looked at my books and realized this was going to work and would grow.
What’s your advice to aspiring chefs and restaurateurs, particularly those of color?
I would tell aspiring Black chefs to be open for greatness. I’ve really been working on not limiting my possibilities. Find a mentor that really rocks with you. Keep a journal for what you want out of your career and one of everything that happens at work. Stand up for yourself when you know you are being wronged. If you get fired there are plenty other restaurants. Make sure you are paid what you are worth. This is always the hard one but its very important and I wish I had fully grasped it earlier.
What changes does the restaurant and bar industry need to make to address racial injustices?
If the restaurant industry wants to begin to address racial injustice when you hire Black people and POC, pay them a livable wages with benefits. If that’s not in your business model, you haven’t event met the most basic needs so come back when that’s done. A lot of people think hiring a Black person to be in charge is enough. It is not. You need to listen and implement their ideas. Actually give your employee the chance to do their job without micromanaging every tasks. Make sure the environment is welcoming to non-Whites and not in some silly way either. Employers must take their Black employees’ grievances into true consideration; not just written off as an attitude.
On the flip side, are there things you’re doing differently on a personal level in your restaurant to promote progression?
Currently my business is a one person operation but I am growing. I won’t hire employees until I can pay them a livable wage. The shift of money and wealth is what will cause a shift in racial inequality. I won’t pay a person to be in poverty because I want to make more biscuits or smoke more ribs. The restaurant industry is extremely exploitative and it’s time that it’s really examined as to why this is ok?
People are expected to work nights, weekends and on holidays in the Bay making $18 an hour before taxes as an adult. In addition to being on time to their multiple jobs, work with a smile and be grateful for the opportunity. It’s absolutely ridiculous. My business may be small now but when I have employees, I won’t participate in a system that is clearly broken. Yes the costs are extremely high, but that’s what comes with owning a business and you can’t just run your employees who are mainly Black and Brown into the ground for the sake of your ownership.
Vicktor Stevenson, Owner & Operator, Gourmonade
What sparked your desire to open Gourmonade, San Francisco’s gourmet lemonade company?
I had a very strong craving for quality lemonade and could not find any to fill the void so I created it Gourmet + Lemonade Gourmonade. Redefining lemonade is my passion.
What was your first “made-it” moment?
My first “made it” moment was when I did my very first pop up and everything went wrong. It felt like the universe punched me in the gut and asked me if this is what I really wanted to do. I’m still standing four years later.
What’s your advice to aspiring chefs and restaurateurs, particularly those of color?
My advice would be to follow your passion. Learn about COGS and educate yourself. Seek out entrepreneurial programs like Uptima Business Bootcamp. Experience is the best teacher and don’t skip steps. Do it yourself and do not pay anyone to write your business plan.
What changes does the restaurant and bar industry need to make to address racial injustices?
I think businesses across the board can start by celebrating Black History Month. Every other holiday has all kinds of decorations… etc. Black History Month deserves the same acknowledgment. I believe just hiring a diverse team would make all the difference.
On the flip side, are there things you’re doing differently on a personal level in your restaurant to promote progression?
In my kitchen and in my business we have a diverse team. I believe we all bring something to the table and we should celebrate our differences because variety is the spice of life.Follow me on Twitter or LinkedIn. Check out my website or some of my other work here. Chelsea Davis
I’m a freelance writer whose passion revolves around exploring the world, immersing myself in foreign cultures and, of course, eating and drinking everything delicious.… Read More
Source :https://www.forbes.com/sites/chelseadavis/2020/06/19/the-battles-barriers-and-big-breaks-of-8-black-bay-area-chefs/?sh=474ec7ce4db9
